Most established communities have a long-popular, homestyle Italian restaurant where you can always count on a perfect pizza, a fabulous bowl of spaghetti and meatballs or a comforting plate of chicken parmesan. And often, too, a hug or a handshake from the owner.
The far South side of Reno is a new neighborhood, so understandably, it has some catching-up to do. Then again, I'm new here, as well.
If I had my way, I'd find a place that compares to my Italian favorites in other states. In the Chicago area, memorable, "mom-and-pop" Italian joints included Barraco's http://barracos.com/ and The Original Papa Joe's http://www.originalpapajoes.com/
These have been in business more than 30 years.
Near Seattle, we were partial to the family-owned Frankie's Pizza and Pasta, http://www.frankiesredmond.com/zgrid/themes/10417/intro/index.jsp
which harkens back to 1993. (And now that seems like a long time ago!)
Carino's Italian Restaurant, 13901 S. Virginia St., at The Summit in South Reno, is part of a Texas-based chain that originated in the mid-'90s. The location at The Summit opened about a year ago — and last week, I decided to give it a whirl. It didn't win me over 100 percent, but was better than expected and worth a return visit.
For a chain restaurant, Carino's pretty much captured the look and feel you'd expect in a neighborhood Italian joint: red-checkered tablecloths, black-and-white photos on the walls, soft lighting, background music by Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett and Vic Damone.
Our server was efficient and friendly, but now let's get to the food. My first thought was to go for eggplant parmesan, an Italian standard that I've never learned to make at home. On second thought, I ordered shrimp scampi ($16.99).
The serving size was generous and the angel hair pasta, tossed with mushrooms, roasted garlic, roma tomatoes, basil, parmesan and white wine lemon butter sauce was delicious. But the shrimp seemed overcooked (dry and chewy). Next time, I'll try the eggplant parmesan.
My husband chose more wisely, ordering a manly dish called Mama Carino's Spaghetti ($14.99). This was a massive bowl of spaghetti, topped with two links of outstanding Italian sausage, three chubby meatballs and meat sauce, to boot. Very "old school" Italian-American and very satisfying.
Our meals came with a warm loaf of bread and garlic-infused olive oil. For $2.99 each, we also had Caesar salad. Side servings of Caesar or house salad at Carino's are "unlimited" but our initial portions were large enough that we didn't need refills.
Carino's extensive menu features many more Italian classics, as well as "Only at Carino's" selections like Pepperoni Macaroni and the Skilletini, "a sizzling skillet with spaghetti, spicy marinara, parmesan, marinated onions and green bell peppers." Family platters are available, probably a winning option for large groups. Carino's also has kids' meals and gluten-free menu items.
I miss you, Barraco's, Papa Joe's and Frankie's! But for right now, yes, I think I'll be back at Carino's in South Reno.
For more information, call (775) 852-8875 or visit
http://www.carinos.com/page/home
UPDATE: On a return trip to Carino's in March 2013, my husband again ordered the Mama Carino's Spaghetti and was very pleased with it. I was not happy with my order of Chicken Marsala. The chicken, which was described as sauteed in wine sauce with mushrooms, appeared and tasted more like plain chicken which had been topped, at the last-minute, with some wine sauce and mushrooms — and certainly not enough sauce or mushrooms. It was bland and uninspiring, especially given that the big pile of fettucine underneath was dry. No sauce at all! Maybe this is a place where one should stick with "red sauce" dishes like the spaghetti.
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