When I talk to my folks in Chicago, they often regale me with glowing accounts of their latest visits to the area’s decadent, yet inexpensive, Polish buffets.
Chicago, until recently, was said to have the largest Polish population outside of Warsaw. Allegedly, New York City now holds that distinction. Regardless, the Chicago metro area has legions of Polish and Polish-American residents and numerous, fabulous Polish delis and restaurants that keep them — and non-Poles, too — happy and well-fed.
The typical Chicago-style Polish buffet includes a full salad bar and American standards such as fried or roasted chicken, ham and roast beef. But the big draw is the traditional Polish cuisine. Fresh and/or smoked kielbasa (Polish sausage) with kapusta (sauerkraut). Pierogi (dumplings filled with potatoes, cheese, cabbage, fruit or meat). Potato pancakes, crepes and blintzes. Hearty soups such as mushroom or beet. Stews like pork goulash. Golambki (meat-and-rice-filled cabbage rolls with tomato sauce). Breads and pastries, jello molds, etc.
Many of these buffets are “all you can eat” for $10-17, depending on the day and time of your visit. I haven’t found anything comparable in South Reno.
But to borrow a lyric from the Rolling Stones, “You can’t always get what you want, but you get what you need.” And so I set out in search of “tastes of Polonia” in South Reno.
My first stop was Manhattan Deli at Atlantis Resort and Casino, 3800 S. Virginia St. :
Manhattan Deli is a New York/Jewish-style deli but has some dishes that can be found on many Eastern European menus. I swung by at lunchtime, to see if I could get some a la carte, “heat at home” cabbage rolls from the deli case.
That wasn’t an option, but they offered me a Cabbage Rolls with Sweet and Sour Gravy meal to go. The $12 meal included three cabbage rolls, vegetables and a choice of starch. I opted for mashed potatoes.
The “Sweet and Sour Gravy” should have been a red flag because I’ve never heard of that ingredient in association with cabbage rolls, or golambki, as my family would call them. (Pronounced “go-WOOMP-kee,” in case you were wondering.) But hey, life is all about trying new things, right?
Well, I wouldn’t say that Manhattan Deli’s cabbage rolls were the worst I’ve ever eaten. That dishonor would go to the cabbage rolls from the deli case at the QFC (Kroger) store in Redmond, Washington. QFC’s version of cabbage rolls was a truly ghastly recipe, with the meat filling tasting like Oscar Mayer liver sausage.
Yet Manhattan Deli’s cabbage rolls also had a flavor and texture unlike any I’ve consumed in Chicago’s Polish restaurants or at family gatherings. The cabbage was limp, the meat and rice mixture within was bland and mushy, and the so-called sweet and sour gravy was watery and just plain sour. Dotting the cabbage rolls was something small and yellow. Corn kernels, I suspected. No, more like pickled grapes. Odd, indeed.
I honestly didn’t give a hoot about the accompanying veggies and potatoes. At least they were fresh, steamed vegetables and the potatoes were fine — not too lumpy, not too smooth. Unfortunately, I really wanted memorable cabbage rolls and these fell short of expectations.
But on a previous trip to Manhattan Deli, I had a rave-worthy Reuben sandwich. Although it wasn’t cheap ($14 for the sandwich alone), the corned beef was super-tender and flavorful and the sandwich was so large that I got two meals out of it. So I’m not suggesting that you avoid Manhattan Deli. I just wouldn’t order the cabbage rolls again.
If you go to Manhattan Deli, you can get table service or ask for take-out, as I did. The clean dining room is nicely decked out in red, black and white, with sepia-toned photos of New York City on the walls.
The room overlooks the casino floor at Atlantis, so for ambiance, you’ll get the sights and sounds of whatever is going on there.
While I waited for my carry-out order, I relaxed to the piped-in strains of “If You Leave” by Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark, from the “Pretty in Pink” soundtrack. Ah, nostalgia!
But that pleasant musical interlude didn’t change the fact that my stab at finding Polish Paradise at Manhattan Deli didn’t pan out. Still, I’m not ready to give up my quest for Chicago-style Polish comfort food in South Reno. To be continued ….
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